Sambalpuri Saree

A Sambalpuri saree is a handwoven saree from western Odisha whose patterns are created by Bandha, a tie-and-dye ikat technique in which the yarn is dyed in the planned design before it is woven.

In Odia: ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ ଶାଢ଼ୀ
Geographical Indication: Sambalpuri Bandha sarees and fabrics are a registered Geographical Indication (GI) of Odisha.

Navy Ikat Saree with Ivory Bandha Pallu, an example of Sambalpuri Saree

Where it comes from

Sambalpuri sarees are woven mainly in the Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur (Subarnapur), Boudh and Balangir districts of western Odisha, by weaving families who have passed the craft down for generations.

How it is made

Weavers tie bundles of yarn with thread at precise points, dye them, and repeat the process for each colour. The tied sections resist the dye, so when the yarn is finally set on the loom the motif appears as the weaving progresses. This is why Sambalpuri motifs have their characteristic soft, feathered edges.

Signature motifs

Shankha (conch)Chakra (wheel)Phula (flower)Pasapalli (chessboard)Fish and elephantTemple (kumbha) borders

How to spot a genuine Sambalpuri

The motif is visible almost equally on the reverse, because it is dyed into the yarn rather than printed on top.

Edges of each motif look slightly feathered. Perfectly crisp, flat edges usually mean a print.

Small irregularities in colour and repeat are the mark of hand tying and hand weaving.

For silk Sambalpuri, look for the Silk Mark label, which certifies natural silk.

When to wear it

Sambalpuri silk suits weddings, pujas and Nuakhai celebrations. Sambalpuri cotton is breathable enough for everyday wear and for Puri's humid sea air.

Caring for it

Dry clean silk Sambalpuri for the first few washes. Hand wash cotton in cold water with mild detergent, and dry in the shade to protect the dyes.

Sambalpuri Sarees at Handloom Garden

Navy Ikat Saree with Ivory Bandha Pallu, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Black & Red Sambalpuri Bandha Saree, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Scarlet & Black Sambalpuri Temple Pallu Saree, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Ivory & Red Ikat Saree with Floral Pallu, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Ivory & Fuchsia Sambalpuri Ikat Saree, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Black & Fuchsia Sambalpuri Saree with Bird Motifs, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Lime & Fuchsia Pasapalli Bridal Saree, Pasapalli saree at Handloom Garden Puri

White Pasapalli Rainbow Check Saree, Pasapalli saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Beige Ikat Saree with Elephant Motifs, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Magenta Sambalpuri Saree with Ivory Motifs, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Beige Saree with Red Ikat Border, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

White & Red Sambalpuri Saree, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Magenta & Ivory Ikat Saree with Elephant Border, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Magenta Sambalpuri Saree with Elephant Motifs, Sambalpuri Ikat saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Ivory Pasapalli Saree with Colour-Block Pallu, Pasapalli saree at Handloom Garden Puri

Sambalpuri Ikat

Navy Ikat Saree with Ivory Bandha Pallu

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Sambalpuri Saree: questions

How can I tell if a Sambalpuri saree is original?

Turn it over. In a genuine Sambalpuri Bandha saree the motif shows on both sides with soft, feathered edges, because the yarn was dyed before weaving. Printed imitations are sharp on the front and faint on the back.

What is a Pasapalli saree?

Pasapalli is a Sambalpuri design named after the pasa (chess or dice) board. It features a bold checkerboard of contrasting squares, usually woven with double ikat.

Where can I buy Sambalpuri sarees in Puri?

Handloom Garden at Swargadwar Square, Puri stocks Sambalpuri silk and cotton sarees, including Pasapalli designs. The showroom is air-conditioned and open every day from 9 AM to 9 PM.